Anhui, China -

hanghai: a manic metropolis seemingly on the brink of anarchy yet safer than many provincial western towns. I was smitten for a while, but it was not to last. The very things about the city that once made me feel alive began to test my patience. Friends said Shanghai and I had a good thing going on but we'd spent too much time together. I felt a little time apart was needed.

A weekend in Huangshan was the obvious choice. It didn't disappoint. From virtually any angle, the stunning Yellow Mountains (as they are otherwise known) knock that showy metropolis into a cocked hat. Shanghai may have iconic edifices like Jin Mao and the Pearl Tower, but she is no match for the grand architectural designs of nature. Besides, Huangshan's 72 towering peaks are not symbols of a nouveau riche renaissance. They are elements of a Chinese zeitgeist more than 1,200 years old – evident in the work of Chinese painters and poets since before the birth of Christ.

There's virtually no view that's a bad one, and some, like the preeminent Heavenly Capital Peak perspective, are pure class. But to get the best out of a visit requires planning – there are many routes to follow. Desk jockeys whose idea of exercise is a walk to the water cooler will have to pace themselves too. Though tamed by cable cars and laid paths, this is wild country, complete with leg-burning climbs and descents on scarily narrow, steep stone staircases.

It's best, though not essential, to base yourself on the mountain and visit over two days. Xihai (West Sea) and Beihai (North Sea) hotels are ideal. Both provide the only realistic way to experience the cinematic splendour of a sunrise over Huangshan from the vantage point at Refreshing Terrace, a five-minute walk from Behai Hotel.

If a 4am start seems a little ambitious, opt for the sunset over Xihai instead. The evening vista may deny you that most Huangshan of scenes ?¡è a sea of mist coursing through the valley below like an ethereal ocean ¬?¡è but it's a perfect way to round off day one.

To make the sunset, start the day by taking the Cloud Valley Temple cable car to the summit. After checking into your hotel, spend the remainder of the morning ambling along the delightful paths of the Behai area. Stone Monkey Gazing over the Sea and Beginning to Believe Peak are moderate diversions. Mid-afternoon, head for the Cloud Dispelling Temple to witness the fabulous view over Xihai Gorge. Here, lovers gather to SWALP – the act of sealing a union with a loving padlock by attaching it to chain railings. Locks are available from all good mountain gift shops, priced at RMB 20-40. The best views of sundown are (thankfully) away from romantic gestures and crowds – a 15-minute walk west toward the Taiping cable car.

Day two. If you are planning to leave the park by nightfall, a 15-kilometre traversal of the Western Steps to Heavenly Capital Peak is a testing jaunt amid many of Huangshan's signature sights.

First, head to the high point of Bright Summit Peak for a 360-degree panorama of virtually all of Huangshan. From there, follow the path to Jade Terrace of the West Sea, past Lotus Peak (currently closed), and on to Heavenly Capital Peak (open, though not for those fearful of heights). Admire the views, marvel at just how friendly many of the parks wild animals are and join in with fellow visitors for a rowdy 'shout out' – the echo potential of Huangshan's many vantage points is an amusing distraction.

Make sure you make it to the nearby Jade Screen Peak Cable Car by 4.15pm or you could be facing your first lovers tiff. I didn't. Having missed the last car, I cursed my new beau all the way down a nine-kilometre, knee-crippling staircase to the carpark above the hot springs area.

Say what you like about Shanghai, at least she has elevators and they run all night. Huangshan may be a stunner, but she was trouble in the end. I might have guessed.