Rajasthan: Royal Welcome
In 1947, when India gained independence from the British, the maharajas had mostly gone to seed following 100 years of indulgence by their foreign masters. Their land and privileges gone, unable to find a new role in India's burgeoning democracy, the former kings soon ran out of cash to maintain [ read more ]
Darjeeling: High Tea

"Life is chaos, the world is chaos. The only constant is change. I like chaos and the way you position yourself in it. Where do we come from? What are we doing here and where are we going? We need to answer these questions to be free, to find our [ read more ]
Jaisalmer: Sand Safari

If camels are the ships of the desert, then I must be on the Titanic. There's rolling, lurching and pitching – not to mention belching and farting. I could do with an iceberg though: it is already far too hot a couple of hours after breakfast, and it's only going [ read more ]
Hampi: The Legend that Time Forgot

A giant must have made it – a giant modernist sculptor. How else did these enormous piles of finely-formed boulders come to rest in such decorous patterns?
Nothing can quite prepare you for Hampi's surreal landscape. As you start down the road from the nearby railway town of Hospet, the [ read more ]
Sikkim: Taking a Peak

Breathe in. Breathe out. Each step up the faint track brings us closer to the stone cairns. The colourful prayer flags hang limp on their lines. Breathe in. Breathe out. The air is cold and crisp. Apart from the lack of oxygen, it is pleasantly invigorating. Breathe in. Breathe out. [ read more ]
Goa: It's A Goa

Loved and lost, fought over, isolated, divided, united, abandoned, rediscovered. Few beaches in Asia, or anywhere else for that matter, can claim even a fraction of the history of Goa. Once undeniably grand, this old resort seems to have slipped from memory in recent times. But Goa is back on [ read more ]
Ladakh: The Earth's Umbilical Cord

"I walk for money. What do you walk for?" asked Yaqoob, my guide, one day when we stopped at a stream to wash.
We had been walking for four days, up and down dusty mountains, through isolated valleys, over 5,000-metre-plus passes. The Ladakhi Mountains, brownish and purplish among muddy or [ read more ]
Rajhastan: Live like a King

Rajhastan was once the land of the maharajas, the famous princes who ruled over the land and people in northern India. They were fabulously rich, often with their own private armies, and even when Britain colonised much of the country they remained semi-independent. Only when India escaped British rule for [ read more ]
