Hiroshima: Fallout
Nanjing. Srebrenica. Halabja. Rwanda. Cambodia. Auschwitz. As the bullet train slices a trail through western Japan, my handwritten list of 20th-century massacres is lengthening. Outside, a milky early morning sun catches the auburn foliage, enlivening the hillsides. Inside, my mood is subdued. Having just left Kobe, a city ripped asunder [ read more ]
Tokyo: Fugu Voodoo

Japanese fugu, also known as the puffer or blow fish, is the very definition of icky – an ugly, scaleless fish with sneering lips, gooey skin and a talent for puffing-up to grotesque proportions when annoyed. However, despite its rather charmless appearance, fugu has intrigued foodies for millennia. The tomb [ read more ]
Kyoto: Zen and the Art of Geisha

"Autumn gales drive the moon, its reflection falls on the clear river, cold as a great length of glassy silk", wrote the 12th-century Zen poet, Sesson Yubai.
He might have been perched on the banks of Kyoto's Kamogawa (Kamo River) as he scribbled his ode to Japan's most 'desirable' season. [ read more ]
