Thailand -

he islands of Thailand have gone through a metamorphosis that could be a model for any tourist destination, and one that gives hope to beautiful hideaways going through the pangs of discovery. A few decades ago, before the term 'backpacker' had even been invented, hippies and castaways from modern life started filtering into the palm trees lining the beaches, shacked up in bamboo huts – sometimes even building them themselves – and settled into a secluded, yet Spartan, paradise.

By the early 1980s, word had spread and the bungalows became big business. The prime beaches such as Patong and Chaweng packed them in. The palm trees were chopped down to make room for rows of uniform units, and the backpacker invasion began. In another ten years, even the overlooked spots had become overcrowded.

But with the crowds came the developers, and the resort operators, who reclaimed swathes of beachfront and landscaped them around their Gucci-designed villas. They even replanted the palm trees. The beaches and their backgrounds began to return to their natural state, if to a manmade design, and paradise returned – but at significantly higher prices to when it was originally 'discovered'. That's progress for you. Some of those hippies might even call it karma. They can afford it too now they are ex-hippies.

The bamboo shacks are still available though, on the less perfect stretches of beach, and the more inaccessible islands. Today there is a place for everyone, whatever your budget, whatever bag you are packing, under the Thai sun. Take your pick.

The Andaman Coast Islands Phuket ~ Ko Lanta There are lots of good hotels on Phuket's west coast beaches. Amongst the best are those of the Laguna Phuket complex on Bang Thao Bay. They have staff dedicated to keeping the beach clean and the vendors away, and if you get bored with your pool villa at the Banyan Tree, you can nip over to the Sheraton Grande Laguna and swim an amazing pool to just about anywhere in the hotel.

For something more intimate, try the exclusive Amanpuri hidden away on private Pansea Beach. But if you need to ask how much a suite costs, then you had better go next door to the Chedi.

With everything from transvestite shows to the vegetarian festival, from sea-gypsy shanties to mega-million yacht havens, and golf courses – five of them – the island offers much more than just exclusive little bays. On Thailand's largest island, the pace of paradise only slows down on the beach.

The core tourism area on the Andaman Coast is bound by Phuket to the northwest and Ko Lanta (Krabi Province) to the southeast. The second largest island on the coast, Lanta, has a dreadful coast road. The best way to see the island is to take a fifteen-minute microlight flight down the west coast. You will skim above the main beaches in the north, then pass rocky coves followed by pretty bays in the south before rounding the lighthouse and national park on the southern tip. The microlight won't land you at a resort, but the Phimalai Resort and Spa will zip you to their paradise in the south of the island by speedboat. Alternatively stay at Costa Lanta in the north. Set amidst a shady grove on Hat Khlong Dao, the resort has intriguing open-design bungalows.

Between Lanta and Phuket are the Phi Phi and Ko Yao island groups. The location for the The Beach was the fabulous Ao Maya on uninhabited Phi Phi Lae (Hat Nopparat Mu Ko Phi Phi National Park). All the development so far is on sister island Phi Phi Don. The young at heart like the scene in the overcrowded shanty atmosphere of Ban Ton Sai, but for tranquility stay at Phi Phi Island Village or the PP Coral Resort on the quieter northeast coast.

Ko Yao Yai, despite its size and proximity to Phuket, has only a few basic resorts, compared with the choice on Ko Yao Noi. Though Ko Yao Noi has only moderately pleasant beaches, it is an excellent starting point for a sea-canoe trip through the breath-taking karst scenery of Ao Phang Nga. A mountain bike or motorcycle is perfect for touring these friendly Muslim islands if staying at the delightful boutique Koyao Island Resort. A boat is required to reach the brand new Paradise Ko Yao Boutique Beach Resort and Spa, where you can enjoy a majestic view from your villa Jacuzzi.

The Andaman Coast has the greatest range of smaller islands in Thailand. And size does matter, for you may not appreciate a one resort island when its kitchen is having a bad day. Staying on the far flung islands of Surin, Similan and Tarutao Marine National Parks requires forbearance of simple rooms and limited choice of food, if not culinary skills, from the park kitchens. To enjoy the best snorkelling and diving in Thailand, take a trip on a live-aboard to the outlying Similan and Surin Islands.

Tarutao Marine National Park in Satun Province near the border with Malaysia has upscale park accommodation on the large main island, but if you want a true outer island experience in the rustic local atmosphere of a Thai national park, try camping or staying in the park row houses on Ko Adang, 60 kilometres out into the Andaman Sea. You can always nip across the narrows to the resorts on the small island of Ko Lipe, but don't expect much in the way of luxury when you get there, and avoid it absolutely at peak season. Much the same can be said for Ko Bulon, which is two and a half hours towards the mainland by ferry from Ko Adang.

The quietest islands are those of Trang Province. Ko Hai (Ngai) and Ko Kradan (a single resort island) have the best beaches, but Ko Muk, Ko Libong and Ko Sukon are all medium-small sized islands with several Muslim fishing villages linked by narrow concrete lanes. Only two linked resorts on Ko Hai approach luxury – try the Koh Hai Fantasy Resort first.

The Southwestern Gulf Coast Samui ~ Ko Phangan ~ Ko Tao Ko Samui, Thailand's third largest island and Ko Phangan (Surat Thani Province) almost mirror each other across the strait between them, which is eight kilometres at its narrowest. Hat Chaweng on Samui's northeast corner and Hat Rin Nok on Phangan's southeast corner are the best, and most popular beaches. To avoid the lager louts and full moon raves on southern Phangan, go to Chaweng, where posh resorts such as the Princess Village front directly onto the beach.

Samui's second best beach is at Lamai, which feels more intimate than the much larger Chaweng. Ban Bo Phut on the north coast has become a quaint, gentrified fishing village, but none of the beaches elsewhere on Samui can match those on the east coast for sand and sea quality.

Ko Phangan's quietest beaches: Hat Yao, Hat Salat and Hat Khuat, on the north and east coasts of the island are best reached by boat from Ban Thong Sala. Bohemians and those in their gap year will appreciate the numerous inexpensive bungalows found at each of the bays, but exclusive they are not.

If diving is good on the reefs on the north and east of Ko Phangan, then it is better yet on Ko Tao (Chumphon Province), a small island some twenty leagues to the north of Phangan. Diving seems the real reason to go there, and the Ko Nangyuan Dive Resort the best place dive in from, especially if you are a novice and want to get your first open water ticket. Experienced divers should consider a live-aboard trip ex-Phuket.

The Eastern Gulf Coast Ko Samet ~ Ko Chang Ko Samet is a small, pleasant island national park in Rayong Province. But thanks to hordes of Thai weekenders coming down from Bangkok, and its proximity to industrial Rayong Province, it might be better to go further east, to Ko Chang in Trat Province.

The lesser islands, Ko Wai and Ko Kham have resorts that are basic, or try a trip on a locally organised package tour to Kos Kradat, Kut and Mak.

The west coast beaches of Ko Chang itself are a delight, but are becoming increasingly developed. Perhaps the best beach is the long, wide, sandy one on Hat Khlong Prao. A fair stretch of it remains backed by coconut groves as opposed to the rows of bungalows so common elsewhere. Several resorts are pleasant, but for exclusivity and style, try the Barali Beach Resort.