Thailand -

oing it in Style
Anthony Lark helped open the landmark Amanpuri, still one of the world's top beach destinations, and he has topped that with his first ground-up project, the superlative Trisara. The exclusive resort occupies its own strip of beach, bounded by soaring headlands, rock pools and a tiny offshore island behind which the sun sets amidst flares of lime, tangerine and pink. Each villa features a private infinity pool, decadently comfortable beds which feel oceanic in size, a terracotta outdoor shower and all the high tech doodads you could ever want, from flat-screen TVs to iPods. No cars are allowed on site, and the grounds, with teak gabled roofs poking above palm fronds, resemble the ancient city of Sukhothai brought to the beach. A lofted 1,000 sqm teak deck links the light-bathed bar and restaurants, but most guests choose to be outside on Moroccan daybeds or tables that peek out over the sand. Chef David Hamilton's Mod Oz and contemporary Thai menus are the island's best, as are cocktails like the pomelo caipirinha. And for non-guests there is a welcoming atmosphere and food and drink prices lower than in most other island hotels. A worthy splurge for staying, sipping or supping.
(Trisara: 60/1, Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Road, Cherng Talay, Talang; +66 (0)76 310 100; www.trisara.com)

A Stroll in Town
Formerly known as Jung Ceylon, the island of Phuket made its fortune in tin and rubber long before tourism hit. Little known, but much loved by those familiar with it, is Phuket Town. Though places like Malacca and Penang get the press, there is just as much old architecture and sleepy charm here. Roads like Dibuk, Thaland, Yaowarat and tiny soon-to-be-walking street soi Rommani are full of old Chinese style shophouses that reveal Portuguese and Indian detailing. Imported materials, tiling and carvings from as far as Italy, custom doors, window shutters and hidden courtyards even harbour Moorish influences. There's everything from shopping to nightlife to Nonya weddings going on behind those doors.

Morning Marketing
The age-old feel of the island is best experienced in the morning. Get up early at least once and head into town to the market off Ranong Road. The stacks of guava, papaya, winged beans, mango and galangal recall the vibrant shapes and colours of Gauguin paintings. There's a mellow buzz to the activity, and the mix of happiness and commerce is distinctly Thai. You can stock up on tiny bananas named after the shape of a dancer's finger which taste of vanilla and rose (look for gentle curves and a pointy black tip); try the island's namesake pineapple, which is so tender you can eat the core; and treat yourself to the local specialty khanom jin. Tuk-tuk drivers cluster here, making it convenient to double up your itinerary and take a morning stroll around Phuket Town's old buildings after your morning marketing.

(Classy) Phuket by Night
Mellow market by morning, buzzing commercial hub by midday, and screeching nightlife destination after dark: P-Town is many things to many people. Most fun of all is the mix of old and new-style Thai. There is the wood-beamed whiskey bar Timber Hut, where live cover and Thai rock bands take the stage nightly and the local crowds are friendly, stylish and not at all bad on the dance floor. Kor Tor Mor, not far away, is a touch younger and a lot wilder. Camp restaurant early, house party gone wild later, Ka Jok See is a favorite with expats, high-society Bangkok types and jetsetters in the know. A lounge scene has begun to spring up of late too with the semi-private bar Seua Saming and the modish XVI. Both have smoother music, better cocktails and more sophisticated crowds than elsewhere. For something different, ask locals about the Laem Singh Lounge, a tiny bar accessible only via a jungle path to the beach of the same name. It's rustic chic – but fabulous rustic chic – and the owner, Jenny, is renowned for cocktails, hospitality and parties.
(Kor Tor Mor and XVI: 41/5 Chanacharoen Road (+66 76 232 285); Seua Saming: 83-85 Yaowarat Road (+66 76 259 269); Laem Sing Lounge: Laem Singh Beach; Ka Jok See: 26 Takua Pa Road (+66 76 217 903))

Southern Plenty
Perhaps the only thing comparable to the diversity of landscape and culture in Thailand is the food. Southern cooking makes normal Thai cuisine (which is in fact Bangkok-style and more Chinese in influence) look downright bland. Phuket is one of southern cuisine's strongholds. The food combines Indian aromatics, Malaysian spice cookery, Chinese technique and even a touch of Persian influence, thanks to the sway of the spice trade which used to pass through the port here. On top of all that is the endorphin-inducing Thai penchant for chilli. It's dynamic and addictive, folding in local products from water-grown greens to sweet, slightly pungent dried shrimp called goong siab. The best local food is made at dawn and lunch at roadside stops and markets. Specialities include a series of curries like gaeng luang (fiery southern yellow curry with shrimp paste, chilli and sometimes sweet spices), kaeng matsaman (Muslim-style beef curry with pineapple and peanuts) and nam ya (a puree of fish, coconut, milk and ginger) served with noodles called khanom jin; roti, or flatbreads, served with curry dip and egg; and another Muslim favourite, khao mok, the Siamese take on biriyani. If you have no desire to move off the beach before sunset, try Kan Eang, a classic Thai seafood place with views over island-dotted Chalong Bay. In Phuket Town, cafe346 occupies a pair of shophouses painted a daffodil yellow with a tiny, red lantern-hung interior, no more than two dozen seats, good cocktails and a menu of southern and central specialities.
(cafe346: 346 Phuket Rd (+66 76 216 332); Kan Eang II: 9/3 Chao Fa Rd (+66 76 381 694))

The Only Big Resort that's Worth it
Big resorts have become anathema to many, but the JW Marriott Phuket has helped reinvent the genre with Thai style, an escapist feel that's not overdone and a casually chic air. Landscape architect Bill Bensley has done a beautiful job with the sprawling tropical grounds, though the recent lobby makeover is a bit much. Rooms have enormous tubs and a mix of East-West style; request those on the ground floor with patio areas. The sensual, teak-trimmed Mandara Spa is the island's best. From the sushi at 20-seat Kabuki to the open-air bar and the addictive Siam Deli, the food is a close second to that at Trisara. For those who want private quarters and a great deal, villas under the Marriott Vacation Club can be rented for less than USD 150 a night, complete with kitchens, decks and living rooms. Insider's tip: when calling, ask for Ms Sirikan Rungkaew, a beloved local sales girl.
(JW Marriott: 231 Moo 3, Mai Khao; +66 76 338 000; www.marriot.com)

Beach Hopping to Better Bali
Somewhere along the way, one overdone stretch of beach (Patong) and a few bad resorts have managed to tarnish Phuket's image. The reality is that the interior is strewn with untouched jungles, rubber plantations, pineapple orchards and waterfalls. And the entire western coast and north is almost untouched. Phuket also has an array of drop-dead beautiful beaches that put those in most of Borneo and all of Bali to shame; even better is the fact that they are all public, which means you can saunter through any posh resort and towel down on its well-manicured shore. Waters are generally clear, tinged with teal, and nudge up against white sand, soft as sugar. Headlands on the island soar above many beaches and protect the island (this is why the tsunami hit hard to the north in Khao Lak but did no damage for the most part here) and also lend feminine curves to the coast. The JW's beach, Mai Khao, is lined with sea pines, a nesting area and national park for sea turtles. Laem Singh is a gem for its cove and secret-handshake bar. Reachable only by jeep or boat, Nui Beach is a fetching little strip of sand and nearby Kata is a body surfer's promised land. There's a whole new level of beauty once you hop a boat and head up towards Phang Nga Bay and Phi Phi. Limestone mountains jut out, waters have a spa-like sense of calm to them. The entire west coast of Phuket is nearly unpopulated for now, so take advantage and head out to the Panwa and Yamu areas.

Simon Cabaret
If there were seven bawdy wonders of the world, the boys, girls and boys-who-are-girls-who-like-boys of Thailand would certainly be included. Surgery here is cheap and plentiful, as is freedom of expression, and there's a combination of Siamese charm, Vegas tackiness, Brazilian flair and European drama to this cabaret near the neon-swathed downmarket tourist hub of Patong. It's good/bad, clean fun with lights, dancing, vamping, tunes and plenty of laughs or love, depending on how you approach it. Local families go along as well, in what is a very odd, very Thai affair. Better than anything you'll find in Bangkok.
(+66 76 342 011; www.phuket-simoncabaret.com)

Escaping Dry Land
There are thousands of islands, rock formations and limestone karsts in the area that begins in Phuket and extends down through Phang-Nga, Phi Phi and Krabi. The scenery in this area is stunning and the water is incredibly still and clear. Some of the world's best diving can be reached in the Similians and, even better, the Andaman Islands, technically in Myanmar and accessible only on live-aboard. But the great thing about Phuket and the surrounding areas is that there's no need to spend much money or make much effort. Snorkelling is just fine, swimming almost as good, but the best way to experience it all is by sea canoe. Hawaii-bred raconteur and eco-tourism pioneer John Gray leads trips into a variety of areas, paddling by sea, through caves, into lagoons and around karsts. He even does spirit ceremonies on occasion. Trips can be tailored to last hours or days.
(124 Soi 1, Yaowarat Rd; +66 76 254 505; www.johngray-seacanoe.com)

Sunday Means Brunch
Because beaching it doesn't always have to mean fruit, bikinis and tans. When the need to feed strikes, take a deep breath, make a reservation at Twin Palms, and begin counting the minutes until Sunday morning. That's when this chic, urban-style resort – think dark woods and sleek tones – becomes a brightly-lit bacchanal. The food is by the same people behind beloved Bangkok haunt Kuppa, which means fresh oysters, luscious muffins, heady coffee, pastas, California-style salads and just about every other food group imaginable. Bubbly, mojitos and mimosas are on hand to fuel the fun, and the indoor-outdoor setting means that on many days what begins after midday as brunch continues past sunset and morphs into something else entirely. This has quickly become the weekend destination for the growing number of million-dollar Phuket villa owners, yet remains a surprisingly good deal (prices change according to season), so book early.
(Twin Palms: 106/46 Moo 3, Surin Beach Rd; +66 76 316 500; www.twinpalms-phuket.com)